Thursday 21 January 2010

Paradise doesn’t come with air conditioning

Actually, that’s a lie. At this very moment I am sitting under virtually the only air conditioning unit on the island, which happens to be attached to my bedroom wall. The only other one I’m aware of is in the school principal’s office, leading me to the obvious conclusion that all the students’ trying behaviour is actually a covert attempt to get cool. I can only hope that word doesn’t get round about my air con unit or we’ll be in all sorts of trouble...

I digress... the air con is a god-send because it is hot, hot, hot and when I say hot, I don’t mean in the pleasant ‘oh isn’t it lovely to kick back and relax in the heat’ kind-of-a-way. It’s more of an ‘I think I’m about to expire’ kind-of-experience on a daily basis. But you know your beginning to acclimatise when you’re not soaked through at the end of a school day and the prospect of jeans in the evening doesn’t make you wilt any further. So I’m happy to report that we’re beginning to acclimatise.

When I say we, I’m referring to me and my partner in crime, Bella. Bella is blonde and the sight of us leaves old islanders rooted to the spot as we stroll down the street. They look at us as if to say, ‘What ARE they?’ Of course, things are different with Chief and Mama Chief, our esteemed landlords. Chief is cultured. He’s been to Sri Lanka, to learn English. So he’s not in the least bit phased by us and our immodest dress sense (by immodest I mean that we sometimes show some ankle and often an elbow). Mama Chief collapses into giggles at the mere sight of us. She finds it ludicrously funny that we don’t know how to make curry, that we can’t make the primitive washing machine work and that we didn’t know that all Maldivian snacks are made of fish.

That reminds me; I set you homework at the end of last session and you have all failed to complete it. Very disappointing, but then I’m pretty sure you wouldn’t have even come close to telling me how many ways you can cook with canned tuna. Here are just a few ideas we’ve encountered so far: you can put it in fried rice, fried noodles, pasta (hot and cold), curry, samosas, crispy balls with potato (and lethally concealed chillies), and let’s not forget the good old tuna mayo sandwich. We are surrounded by vast seas of fresh fish and seafood. Fishermen spend hours at sea, boasting about the size of their last catch. Yet can you buy any of it in the shops? No. Just tinned tuna. And you’ve got to particularly watch out for the value packs. They make Tesco value tuna look like a luxury brand.

Anyway, enough grumbling from me, we’re about to go swimming and that really IS a perk of this job. If you stand on the main street by the school, you can look from one end of the island to the other and see sea on both sides. We’ve identified a good spot, where the water is clear of rocks and the beach is free of nappies (it’s properly gross), so all that remains is for me to don my burkini. I’m joking – just.
TTFN xxx

9 comments:

  1. Hi!! Sounds like you're having an interesting time out there!! I can't really compete with your ideas for tuna dishes, the best I could come up with is tuna mayo (you beat me to it), and tuna & cucumber. Neither are hardly that adventurous :-) Currently at home, passed my exam fine. Mum put me to work straight away so I'm doing an audit for her surgery!!! It's nice to be able to keep up with your adventures, hope you're having fun. Lots of love xxx

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  2. Dear Charlotte - I am just loving your blog - keep it coming, I am there with you. Working on the tuna recipe for you!! VickyX

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  3. I met some lovely Maldivian people in Sri Lanka and they graciously had us over for tea where everything, and I mean everything, was made from fish. Very tasty, but very fishy!:-)
    Lots of love to you!

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  4. Hi Charlotte, Fascinating accounts. Some Sri Lankan tuna recipes are at http://asiarecipe.com/srimain.html but they're really meant for fresh tuna, not canned. I suppose the Maldivians must export all their fish catch. I hope the mosquitoes aren't too much of a problem. Love from all the family.

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  5. Oh, Charlotte, you are one of 'those' people to whom absurd 'things' happen. Fortunately for us detached readers, these 'things' make amusing stories. You are well suited to writing a blog!

    I'm always surprised at the complete absence of goods in the countries where they're produced. My housemate recently went to Uganda and he took a 1,000 PG Tips teabags to give to the friend he was visiting. Tea - to central Africa. It's mad. When I quizzed a Costa Rican guide about why I couldn't find in his country the "made in Costa Rica" coffee that is all over over supermarkets, the guide's reply was blunt: "exactly, it's all over your supermarket". It's as if Adam Smith's hand is pouring my morning tea.

    Nappies - yikes.

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  6. Hi Charlotte,
    Am loving this.
    Are you familiar with the classic American delight that is tuna casserole? Tuna + cooked noodles + a tin of cream of mushroom soup + tinned veg (I like peas). Stir. Cook under crust of crisps. I know, delicious AND healthy.

    xJean

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  7. i am really surprised that u wrote about fish without researching much, in almost all the islands of Maldives fresh raw fish is available only in fish markets, it is located on the beach, mostly in the evening. have u ever been to their fish markets.

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  8. Fear not. My comments about being unable to find fish were mock outrage, not genuine outrage. I know exactly where the fish market is on our island, you can smell it from several streets away but when you arrive in a strange place where people have little experience of foreigners it takes a bit of time to find out where facilities such as the fish market are and how they operate.
    I am happy to report however that i recently went out fishing with some maldivian friends and we now have enough fish to feed a large family for several weeks. Worry not my friend, whoever you are...

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  9. Cooking canned tuna? I don't. I just open the can and eat it with rice.

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